The Mystical Island of Chiloe

Weather kept us from getting to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. So we held up in Puerto Montt (a big port town) and caught it the next day.

Chiloe's famous dish is called curanto, which is prepared in a rather interesting way. Traditionally, they dig a hole in the ground, put rocks in the bottom and light a fire. When the rocks start to crackle, they take out the wood from the fire, leaving very hot rocks. They they immediately put clams, muscles, chicken, ham hocks, sausage, and three different types of potatoes. Then they cover all the tasty food with these large leaves and let it cook for about 2 hours depending on the size of the group. (Groups of only 2 need not apply). We were lucky enough to try it by cooking from a pot and from the ground. They were both deeeeelish, but I gotta tell ya, the traditional way had more flavor.

On this beautiful largely rural island, we stayed in a hostel, which was really a nice family's farm house that they let us stay in. Cows, pigs, rolling hills, green grass and amazing skies tickled the senses. The rest of the day, we explored the 1 road community, took tons of photographs, bird watched, and breathed in tranquility.

The next morning, we hopped on a boat and went down river to a hiking put in point. We then speed hiked jumping over muddy paths, along deserted beaches, passed a real shipwreck you can climb on, saw sea cows (no not manatees, actual cows hanging out on the beach) and then over huge rocks covered in shells and sea weed. Why did we walk so fast through such interesting places you say? It was for the big finish. We needed to get to the special island at low tide so we could wade through a small river before it became a big river. And why is it so special? Because it has PENGUINS!!!!!!!

So we snuck up on the Magellanic and Adelaide penguins and watched these surfing tuxedos for nearly an hour. We had a little lunch while watching them no farther than 30 feet from us. Just amazing. It was so great because it wasn't like a tour. It was just going on a hike and then coming upon these great birds to hang out with. Coming back, I got across that river before the tide came, but Mike just missed it got soaked!

The next day we went kayaking at dawn in a "sunken forest" that became sunken in 1965 because of an earthquake. The solitude and mist made it seem like we were in a scene from Lord of the Rings.

To get back from the island of Chiloe to the mainland, you have to take a bus that gets on a boat and is ferried for about 20 min across the water. In the short span of time, I'm not kidding; we saw a new cormorant, a flock of pelicans culling a school of fish and other pelicans joining in to help,dolphins, penguins swimming, and a sea lion! I couldn't believe our luck! There must have been some serious fishing going through the straight! This place is a gem in a world of stones.