Day 8-13: (Raratonga Part Duex)

This time on Raratonga, we stayed at a different place known as Kura’s Kabanas. Still on Muri Beach, it has a lovely garden and a small stream with a bridge to look through to the water. There is a constant breeze that makes a wonderful calming sound as it blows through the palm leaves. We have 2 dogs, 2 cats, chickens, big mud crabs and some myna birds that keep us company. It is a place that is hard to leave and therefore most of our days have been spent on the porch, with our dog for now (CB) reading our books, making our meals, and watching the tide go in and out.
Every night after dinner, we have gone on a walk along the beach to see what we see. Our first night back, we ran into Captain Ahab and he has been our walking companion every night since. Because he’s so skinny, we’ve also packed up a coconut full of food each day to feed Ahab. (That might account for part of why he likes to hang out with us…) One night, we watched some folks playing rugby and the next night the same guys were playing cricket. I don’t really get cricket… Ghost crabs have also been a constant feature. There are so many of them and they don’t hesitate to run over your toes! Don’t worry, Grandpa, I caught one to renew my membership in the Ghost Crab Club!
We have also taken to some water sports. We tried paddling which was a lot of fun even on the rougher waters, but we only had one paddle which made it difficult at times. We have also gone kayaking and find that we really like it. We have both agreed that kayaking will be a recurring feature along this trip and afterwards.
Snorkeling has been a daily feature of these lazy days, but unlike the last places we stayed, Kuri’s Kabanas don’t provide snorkels to borrow. We certainly didn’t want to pay $10NZ each every time we wanted to see some fishes. So, I had to go on some ninja operations to an unnamed resort and score a couple to use. Unfortunately, I was in and out so quick, I didn’t realize that I had picked up two kids snorkels! This required a second run, which required a little more creativity because this time the lady was at the desk. “Get in and out. Get them to like you, but make sure they forget you as soon as they leave you.” Thank you Brad Pitt! I won’t reveal my secrets, but we were able to snorkel for the rest of the trip!
One day, we went to the Inland Cultural Center, which gave us an interesting look into the Cook Island’s history. We got to see the murae (ceremonial) archeological sites of the Third Tribe on the Island. (Before there were only 2 tribes, one from Tahiti and the other from New Zealand, but the tribe on Muri Beach ousted their leader. So the leader took his wives and faithful follower and created a third tribe in the mountains.) We saw where human sacrifices occurred and where then collected the human blood and practiced ceremonial cannibalism. We saw some of the plants that they use for food and medicines, sat on the rock that the chief used to sit, and stood by the look-out point that points directly to New Zealand. Right now, there is only one family that runs this archeological gem, and the work required to maintain these historical sites while turning a profit has been rather challenging. Hopefully, their government will be able to come up with some funds to help maintain this national historic site.
Another day, we decided to complete the cross island hike by ourselves, even though EVERYWHERE we read they recommended a guide. Starting from the north, it heads directly south up and over the mountains, across streams and just pass the tallest point, “The Needle.” While waiting for a bus, an older man in a convertible stopped and asked us if we wanted a ride. He said he would only charge the fee that the bus charges and we gladly accepted. It ended up that this man, named Puri, who reminded me of the slightly wacky baboon in the Lion King, is famous throughout the island. He has been doing an island show and native food preparation instruction for over 30 years now. At over sixty, he still climbs huge coconut trees! We spent the whole ride learning about the island, its leaves, living off the land, tons of stuff!
He dropped us off, and we were on our way to the south of the island. This 3-4 hour hike was not a little stroll through the woods. We were scrambling up mountains, walking along cliff edges, climbing trees, breaking through jungle bush, and using roots as ropes to get us down slippery ledges. It was great! We climbed as far as we could up “The Needle” though signs warned us not to. But the view! We could see waters on both sides of the island with uninhabited jungle in between. The finally of the hike was supposed to be a waterfall that drains into a pool of water that you can swim in. Because of the drought, it wasn’t exactly what we expected, but we didn’t care really. The hike was so fun!
Tonight we will take our last walk up the beach for now and then jump on a plane to New Zealand. The Cook Islands have been a really beautiful and special place. We hope to be able to come back some day. Wish us luck!